Tuesday, October 13, 2020

"just like it said in the encyclopedia"

Fried chicken is heaven, Korean friend chicken especially so.  But many Koreans are unaware of the fraught history of Soul Food in America:
"All this explained my discomfort in publicly asserting my affection for fried chicken. But it did not diminish it. I understood why some African American friends of Momofuku restaurateur David Chang refused to be seen eating fried chicken on camera, as he described in an episode dedicated to the southern delicacy on his Netflix series Ugly Delicious. They didn’t want to be perceived as a cliche.

But while the US was trying to unpick the racist issues surrounding fried chicken, the UK’s Conservative government was stoking the flames. The Home Office’s decision to put anti-knife crime messages on fried chicken boxes perpetuated yet more racist stereotypes about knife crime and chicken shop customers.

It all feeds into that same shame. During a recent podcast recording, I was asked what my final supper would be. As I said 'fried chicken', I couldn’t help hearing an imagined, knowing, 'Of course!' in response.

The US comedian Dave Chappelle got it. In one sketch, he mimics white people watching him as he eats some chicken. 'Look at him,' they say in amazement, 'he loves it just like it said in the encyclopedia.'"

Everything is political, even the crispiest and deliciousist of fried poultry.

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